Many times sinks are clogged in the P trap that hangs beneath the sink. This means the P trap must be removed. Watch as a professional home repairman unclogs a kitchen sink in this free video on home improvement.Expert: James Drew Contact: www.jnchomerepair.com Bio: James Drew is the owner and president of JNC Home Repair in Austin, TX. Drew is also an HVAC certified tech with more than two decades experience in plumbing, masonry, and carpentry. Filmmaker: Todd Green
Monday, December 26, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
How to Check & Refill Engine Coolant : How to Drain Engine Coolant
Start draining engine coolant before flushing the system. Learn tips on how to flush your engine cooling system in this free auto repair video. Expert: Jon Olson Bio: Jon holds a Bachelors of Science in Education and Human Sciences degree, with an endorsement in Industrial Technology Education, and he has worked in Residential Construction for several years. Filmmaker: Jon Olson
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Backyard Problem Solver - Inexpensive Hints & Tips
Whether you are a renter or a home owner on a limited budget, there are many inexpensive ways for you to become your own backyard problem solver. The best potential backyard problem solving approach is preventative maintenance. Another backyard problem solving approach is simple maintenance and minor adjustments. One such approach was addressed in depth in my article "Backyard Problem Solver...Revitalize a Flat Boring Landscape by Berming".
From personal experience, we know that it is often hard to come up with the money needed to do major landscaping overhauls. I'd like to share some simple backyard problem solving techniques, hints, suggestions that work for us that may help you. So grab a cup of Java and consider these ideas:
Backyard problem solving preventative suggestions: Slope your soil beds away from your foundation to keep water from draining toward your house. Keep your vent boxes clean of leaves, debris, and soil. In winter wrap your sprinkler junction with insulation or a heavy blanket to avoid frozen lines. Drain your hoses for the same reason. These are all simple basics we sometimes forget.
Backyard problem solving for weeds: Laying down a black landscape cloth rather than black plastic is better for your soil and achieves the same result of controlling weeds. Black cloth is inexpensive, easier to use and lay, and doesn't poison your soil. The soil breathes through the cloth; it is smothered by black plastic. You just cut the cloth where you want to plant.
A heavy layer of compost or bark mulch keeps your plants roots cool, conserves water, and also controls weeds. Mulching adds beauty in color and texture to your flower beds and gardens. Mulching also has the added advantage of providing rich nutrients and soil building essentials to your soil as it breaks down.
Mulching enriches the soil which feeds your trees, shrubs, and flowers. Through this process your plants are stronger, hardier, and disease resistant. They thrive, grow, and multiply, thus adding beauty to your yard. You save money, time, and frustration in caring for and replacing weak plants. You conserve water which is good for our ecosystem, you save money on your water bill.
Another good back backyard problem solving maintenance technique is to repair or replace leaky hoses and leaky washers in spigots. Water conservation and the cost of watering is a major concern for each of us. Rainwater barrels are especially good too, decorative and providing nutrient rich fresh rainwater for free to your plants. If you don't have rain gutters, you can get those wonderful long chains that direct the water down from your roof into your flower or garden beds.
Another backyard problem solver: If you have a brick or flagstone walk, they move and sink occasionally. You can easily with a little labor, a pry bar or a long screwdriver lift and reset these stones or bricks to level again by prying them up, resetting the level with a leveling tool or even a two by four length. Lift the stone, place additional sand underneath, check the level.
Add more sand as needed to create a sound level and reset stone. Take a rubber mallet of decent size and pound the stone back in place. Rain if available will do the rest or sprinkle with water when you are watering to reset. Go to the next low stone and repeat the process. The result, even pretty patio or walkway restored.
Take the time to power wash or clean your sidewalks and foundations. Touch up or repaint those dreary patio furnishings and accents. The cost is little, the effort not too much to quickly revitalize old or worn patio yard décor. Linseed on wood is an excellent choice for revitalizing wood. We will address it in depth in another backyard problem solving article.
These are a few of the backyard problem solving techniques we recommend. We'll address adding some features and other backyard problem solving techniques in other articles and you can visit us at LandscapeCentral.net.
© Randeen Cummings Nelson
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Saturday, December 10, 2011
Save With Thermal Window Treatments
With the rising cost of energy, now would be a great time to invest in some thermal window treatments. Thermal window treatments help to prevent cold air from getting inside your home in the winter and help keep the sun out of your home during the summer months. This will help cut energy cost year round. It is important to know the makeup of these treatments before you make a purchase. We will discuss a few important factors that should help you make your decision.
Thermal drapes, sometimes called insulated curtains, stand out considerably from a regular panel. While thermal panels can be made of any fabric, one of the main differences is the heavier weight of the thermal panel. Thermals should be lined with a thick rubbery lining. This lining should be waterproof which will protect the panels from the condensation that will occur from the cold air on the windows. It will also prevent the sun from coming through in the summer months. It should also have a thick "bump" interlining in between the lining and the fabric. The results will be thick weather repellent draperies.
Another option with thermal window treatments are insulated roman shades. These are a great option if you want to keep the look of sleek draperies and still get the benefits of thermal window treatments. Thermal roman shades are constructed in a similar manner. They will also contain the rubber backed lining. Some may also be available with a flannel interlining. For a perfect snug fit, consider custom roman shades. By getting the roman shades custom made to your window size, you will ensure no cold air leaking through the sides of the shades.
Now more than ever, there are more options available. Although thermal window treatments can be somewhat heavy, they are becoming available in many stylish fabrics such as silk, colorful cottons, heavy weight linen, contemporary jacquards, and classic chenille prints. The great savings on energy is just one of the great benefits from investing in these treatments.
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Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Dual Pane Window Glass Repair
For the past few weeks, I have been explaining how to repair a broken window pane in your home. But, what if you have dual pane windows? Is the process the same? Well, pretty much, except for a couple of variations. So, let's review the single pane repair process, and I will point out the differences regarding dual pane windows.
When we start talking about dual pane windows, one of the first things that comes to mind is vinyl window frames instead of aluminum. When dealing with dual pane windows, you can have either aluminum or vinyl frames, depending on the year the house was built. Dual pane glass got popular in the 1980's, but vinyl frames didn't really catch on until the 1990's. So, if your house is less than 10 years old, chances are you have vinyl framed windows. In either case, I will discuss the differences. Let's say you have a sliding aluminum frame window with dual pane glass. The procedure for removing the frame from the opening and the glass from the sash is the same as with the single pane windows.
The differences are, first, the glass goes into the frame about twice as far as the single pane window. The single pane window glass went 1/4" into the surrounding rubber. The dual pane usually goes 1/2" into the rubber. So, if both pieces of glass have been broken, you are going to have to order a new IGU (Insulated Glass Unit) from the local glass shop. They are going to want to know the width, height, overall thickness, and possibly the individual glass thickness. The best way to get the dimensions is to measure the width and height from rubber to rubber, write those numbers down. Then, remove the panel from the opening and place it on a table like we did with the single pane window. Remove the screws from opposite corners and pull of the frame. You will be able to see how far the glass goes into the surrounding rubber. If it's 1/2", then you want to add 1" to the width and height that you measured previously (1/2" times two sides= 1"). Then, measure the overall thickness of the unit by removing the rubber from the glass edge.
Typically, this dimension is 1/2", but not always. There is a metal spacer that divides the two panes of glass. Make a note of the color so you can request the same color in the new IGU. It's either going to be silver or bronze. If you want to get the same size spacer you need to give the glass shop the thickness of each piece of glass in the IGU. If the old unit has 1/8" glass on both sides, and the overall thickness of the unit is 1/2", then they will use a 1/4" spacer. If the glass is 3/32" on both sides, they will use a 5/16" spacer. If you don't care about matching the spacer thickness, you can request the thicker 1/8" glass, and they will automatically use a 1/4" spacer.
When you get the new IGU home, the installation is the same as the single pane window. Now, what if only one side of the IGU has been broken? Many times the outer pane will break, but the inside pane is fine. You can order a whole new IGU Like we just did, or, if you're the adventurous type, you can order only the single pane of glass that was broken and replace it. I'm going to explain how to do it, then i'm going to tell you the things that can go wrong. After you have the window pane on the table with the surrounding frame removed, you will see a black rubber type substance around the edge where the spacer is applied. This is a butyl sealant, and you have to separate the broken glass from this butyl. The best way to do it is to take a utility knife with a new blade and break through the butyl where it meets the broken glass. Then, take a new hacksaw blade, and push it into the area where you sparated the butyl from the glass. You don't want the hacksaw blade to be attached to a hacksaw. Using your hand, saw back and forth as you work your way around the edge of the glass. This should allow you to remove the glass.
Once that's done, lay rags on top of the good piece of glass to catch any debris, and scrape the surface of the spacer that will be contacting the new glass. Use a putty knife. Then, remove the rags and debris. When you are ready to put the new glass on, clean the inside of the good piece of glass that you didn't remove. Remember, once you install the new glass, any debris or finger marks on the inside will be permanently sealed. So, clean it real good and check it from all angles. Do the same to the side of the new glass that will be going to the inside of the IGU. Then, run a thin bead of clear silicone around the entire perimeter of the spacer. Set your new glass on the spacer and use finger pressure to adhere the glass to the silicone all the way around.Then, come in from the side, and run silicone around the side where the glass and spacer meet. Cover the window opening with something for 24 hours. You do not want to touch the IGU for 24 hours. The silicone needs to cure. After 24 hours, you can assemble the unit and install it back into the opening.
There are a couple of things that can go wrong. The first one is leaving marks on the inside portion of the glass. Once you seal the glass, you cannot clean what's between the panes. The other thing involves condensation between the panes. If you have even the slightest break in the silicone seal around the glass, chances are you will beging to see moisture form as soon as the nights get cold and the days get warm. You are going to have to decide if you are confident enough in your ability to do the job right, or if it's better to pay the extra money to have it done for you. Just because you pay someone to do it, doesn't mean you still won't encounter the same problems. The difference is, they have to guarantee their IGU for a minimum of 1 year. I have received many units over the years that had marks in between the glass. The beauty of it is the manufacturer can't dispute it, because there's no way anyone else could have done it except them.
OK, what if the window frames are vinyl instead of aluminum? Well, the main difference is the glass in a vinyl window no longer has the rubber gasket around the edge. You dont remove the opposite corner screws and separate the frame from the glass. What they do is put either silicone or a two sided tape on the lip of the frame where the glass rests. That's what holds the glass in the frame, then they apply a snap in stop on all four sides of the glass. So, you have to remove the stops first, then turn over the panel and break the seal holding the glass to the frame using a utility knife. Wear gloves during this procedure. If only one side of the IGU is broken, don't even think about repairing just the one side. You will never get that IGU out of the frame without breaking the other piece of glass in the process. But, on the positive side, you can remove the stops without taking the panel out if it's a slider. You can then measure the dimensions of the glass, and order the new IGU. That way you eliminate any need to temporarily cover up your window. The same is true for the stationary portion of a slider, or a picture window. Before you install the new IGU, be sure and clean the lip that had the tape or silicone, and apply either silicone or tape. Either will work.
You will discover that replacing an IGU in an aluminum frame window is a whole lot easier than a vinyl window. But, in either case, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Rittenhouse Dramm Hose
www.rittenhouse.ca Bruce talks about these high quality yet colorful hoses from Dramm. Rittenhouse carries six different colors! We also learn how to repair a damaged hose and how to reuse rather than throw away your old garden hose. The Dramm Colorstorm Hose and Touch N Flow Watering Wand is an excellent gift for the garden lover, for pricing and info http To find out more about Dramm products go to our website at www.rittenhouse.ca
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Monday, November 28, 2011
KOHLER K-15160-CP Coralais Single-Control Pullout Spray Kitchen Sink Faucet, Polished Chrome
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Brand : Kohler | Rate : 
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Solid metal construction means years of beauty. Washerless ceramic valving ensures precise water control. 9-1/2" spout extends reach for any large sink. Soft-touch spray control has a built-in memory. MasterCleGet 10% off this or any kitchen faucet when you purchase a Legend stainless kitchen sink.
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Friday, November 25, 2011
KOHLER K-10433-CP Forte Single Control Pullout Kitchen Sink Faucet with Color-Matched Sprayhead and Lever Handle, Polished Chrome
!±8±KOHLER K-10433-CP Forte Single Control Pullout Kitchen Sink Faucet with Color-Matched Sprayhead and Lever Handle, Polished Chrome
Brand : KohlerRate :
Price : $159.00
Post Date : Nov 25, 2011 22:45:56
Usually ships in 24 hours
Finish/Color:Polished Chrome Forte kitchen faucets are both beautiful and highly functional. The faucet's simple curves accentuate any kitchen design, while best-in-class spout reach and height provide added workspace.Single-control pullout kitchen sink faucet with color-matched sprayhead and integral backflow protection. Swing spout with pull-out spray and touch control for stream-to-spray water flow. Features MasterClean sprayface that resists mineral buildup and is easy to clean. One-piece, self-contained ceramic disc vale allows both volume and temperature control. Premium material construction for durability and reliability. High-temperature limit stop allows you to preset a comfortable maximum temperature to eliminate scalding. Optimal height and reach provides great clearance beneath the spout. Flexible stainless steel supplies simplify installation. Kohler ceramic disc valves exceed industry longevity standards two times for a lifetime of durable performance. Kohler finishes resist corrosion and tarnishing, exceeding industry durabili
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
How to Change a Shower Faucet
A wise homemaker does not need to call for professional help with every simple problem around the household. That's because she can confidently DIY lots of things, of course, with a little help from how to guides and do-it-yourself guidelines.
How to change a shower faucet is one of the many simple things that wise homemakers must learn to do on their own. Mind you, it is not as complicated as it seem. In fact, you can accomplish the task and learn how to change a shower faucet in a few easy steps.
Step #1: A how to change a shower faucet project has to start with a leaking faucet in your bathroom. Naturally the first step is to remove the old, leaking faucet. Make sure, however, that you cut off the water supply before attempting to take the faucet handle off. Otherwise, you will be all wet because taking off the faucet handle provides an opening for water to overflow without control.
Step #2: After taking off the old faucet, you must have an able replacement at hand. If you are not so sure whether what you will buy fits, you can bring your old, leaking faucet to your dealer and find a suitable replacement. It does not matter if you choose a different style or design. What matters is that your new shower faucet will fit into the outlet.
Step #3: Before installing and start properly on your how to change a shower faucet project, clean the outlet first. Remove any deposits that the shower outlet may have acquired. If the stain and dirt are proving to be more difficult to handle with just water, try a water-vinegar solution as your cleaning agent. They are usually most effective in such kind of mess.
Step #4: When the shower outlet is all clean, you may start screwing the new faucet in place. Make sure that it is secured and installed properly. Otherwise, you will get another leak problem. Installing the new faucet should not be a difficult task to accomplish because there's usually a how-to guide provided for by the manufacturer.
Step #5: Turn on the water supply and check your newly installed shower faucet for leaks. You should also examine whether it is working properly or not. If you find leaks or the shower faucet is not working properly, you might want to think about reinstalling it. You might have missed tightening a screw or a nut.
Monday, November 7, 2011
How to Deal With a Wet Basement
Every day, we find ourselves in situations where we say "oh if I could only have done that differently". Well this could be your opportunity! .When you start to research a basement problem, you will find many companies claiming to offer the latest and greatest in basement waterproofing or claiming to have all the answers and the best systems. Often, they will throw every slick line at you that they can think of to convince you they're the best! However upon closer inspection, once you get to the heart of the matter, you will find that they use the same out-of-date damproofing methods and interior drain systems everyone else does. What's worse they employ slick sales techniques that you would find on any used car lot! It's all a bunch of double-speak, flat out lies, and misdirection, which is designed to con even an Eskimo into buying ice cubes!
Now I know at this point that you are going to ask me how it is that you can trust me, well the reason is simple I am not trying to sell you anything!. I promise, if you listen to all that I have to say, and finish reading this letter, you will end up with more knowledge than you had before, and you will be ready for those "slick" salesmen that will come in the future! I want you to be better informed, better prepared, and better equipped than you are right now; and I also want to let you in on a few TRADE SECRETS that other companies don't want you to know. Before we go into all of the systems, I'd like to introduce myself, and a little bit about my background that makes me uniquely qualified to help you understand how to solve your basement water or your mold problem!
I started building basements over twenty years ago when I was still in high school. I got a job working for what has become the single largest basement company in Ohio. I worked on both the footer and the wall crew so I became well versed early on, in all phases of new home foundation construction and basement waterproofing. Shortly after high school I was hired by a company that performed environmental services, specifically we removed asbestos from schools and public buildings (this was in the mid eighties when the government passed the legislation to require the asbestos be removed from all government building). I learned all there was to know about negative air flow containments air scrubbers manometers and the basics of ENVIRONMENTAL CLEAN UP. I finally quit when I had saved enough money for college. I swore I would never wear a tyvec suit or a respirator again (those are the HOT non-breathable suits that we wear in mold and asbestos clean ups, its funny the way Murphy will get you when you swear not to do something). During these years I began actively pursuing one of my many hobbies and I became an amateur mycologist. I built a lab in my basement... and built myself a glove box and began to perform sterile culture techniques for the growing of all sorts of fungi and mold and mushrooms. I used Petri dishes Autoclaves and learned many of the processes used at modern laboratories today. I did spore streaking and culture analysis. I believe I gave myself the equivalent of an associates degree in mycology. When I got to college I needed a job, and I found one working for the third largest basement waterproofing company in Ohio. I was hired to service their basement waterproofing jobs that were already installed but STILL LEAKED.
I quickly began to learn that there was something drastically WRONG with virtually EVERY single basement waterproofing company in Ohio...
They all install systems with fatal flaws. They have SERVICE DEPARTMENTS to handle the "problem" jobs. I became adept at solving these problem basements "issues". I then began waterproofing basements on my own. I realized from the very beginning that if I didn't want to service my basement customers and charge every year for their warranty I wood have to "fix" the systems themselves used to treat basements. I read every single book there was available on the subject. I did a TONS of experimentation in those first couple of years and began to "fix" each and every one of the problems that I had discovered associated with all the various available waterproofing systems.
Over the years I have continued to refine and improve the systems so they remain "CUTTING EDGE" . About ten years ago I began to study "black mold " and the various health effects related to it. We actually developed the first completely NON-TOXIC (to humans) approach to treating mold problems.
The first thing that you have to understand is that there are ONLY three basic solutions to ANY basements water leakage problems.
Most companies install only one of the three systems but will claim to offer all three, in reality it isn't true. Most companies offer one basic system either the inside system or the outside system.
The systems: Most companies rely on an interior drain system and a sump pump to control the water. They may call it something different, but a pump placed under the floor is a sump pump, and drains placed under the floor are interior drains. This is just flat out not a good idea, unless it is the only option. I recommend that you do not rely on electricity in any situation where it can be avoided. Some companies in order to confuse the customer and gain a competitive advantage claim that only by combining the interior system with something else, usually some sort of outside work (often digging down only 12 inches) is it possible to truly solve a problem (like the Big Chuck and Little John guys). The outside work generally benefits the customer very little, and allows the company to DRIVE UP THEIR PRICE and appear different from the rest of the inside system competition. Some companies, in order to eliminate the competition, actually price different methods as if they do them (even though they don't). They will price exterior waterproofing ridiculously high, the interior drain method extremely low, and their system somewhere in the middle. If you ask for one of the two methods they don't offer, you will be told they won't install that for you because it just won't work for you. Other inside system companies have come up with different interior methods, on top the footer or above the floor products. Although marketed extremely well, these systems fail in comparison to traditional under slab or exterior drainage systems. The reason is simple they completely fail to drain water under the slab either from the water table or from the exterior of the wall.
In order to help you wade through this mess, below, you will find a brief description of the basic systems offered nationally and what is WRONG with them.
The first solution is to actually excavate the foundation, meaning the foundation is dug up; this is generally referred to as waterproofing ( but I can assure you that in most contractors' cases, IT ISN'T). Most of the guys that do this are small 1-4 men outfits. They learned to do what they do from someone who learned it from someone etc. What these "so-called waterproofers" do is actually to re-apply the EXACT SAME SEALANTS and utilize the exact same techniques that already FAILED in the first place! This usually means re-parging the wall and smearing some tar on it like a monkey!
Have you ever known anyone that had an asphalt driveway? How often did they Have-To Re- Seal it?
I can tell you I have. When I was a kid growing up two of my neighbors had an ongoing debate about their driveways. The first swore you needed to seal it every single year, and he did. The second one swore every two years was enough. I can still hear them arguing now in my mind's eye... LOL. The sad truth is that according to the US Bureau of Standards asphalt sealants begin to break down in only 18 months, YIKES! You see the sad truth is; they were both right! And these so called waterproofers charge an average of ten to fifteen grand just to dig up the basement and seal it again using what FAILED already.
...You See Tar Has Never Been Rated as Waterproof
Did you know that in the building codes there are actually two separate definitions for damp-proofing (tar) and waterproofing. Damp proofing by definition means "something that helps to slow the penetration of water into the substrate". HHMMM "helps to slow" sounds quite different than the definition of waterproofing "something that prevents the penetration of water" and further must pass a bending test where the membrane must be able to be bent around a cylinder.
Water proof sealants are almost all exclusively used and installed COMMERCIALLY...(that's because they are more expensive).
The extra costs are what stop the average contractor from offering you , the homeowner, a product that is effective and will last and "stand the test of time". We have developed and recommend if you plan to re-seal your basement; that you use a MULTI-STEP EXTERIOR WATERPROOFING SYSTEM which, uses a cement-based fiber re-enforced wall resurfacing system and NO LESS than two waterproof rated sealants. This is by no means the cheapest of methods, however, and it may or may not be the BEST system to put into place. Which system you should use depends entirely on the specific nature of YOUR problem. There are NO miracle systems than can solve ALL basement problems. The thing I can guarantee is if you use a multistep outside waterproof system it will actively drain water away from the foundation, and the water leak will be a thing of the past, not only that, but the sealants will outlast the wood on your house GUARANTEED!
The second solution is an Interior solution which I call the sub-floor water re-directional system. This involves trenching around the interior of the basement wall and installing a drainage system around the perimeter of the inside of the basement. Many companies never explain that the system only works by completely draining the walls and any water under the slab during periods of extended rain or no melt when the water table rises. This system will allow water to be "drained" from the inside of the walls by drilling weep holes into every core of every single block then drained under the floor into a drain pipe and generally to a sump pump to then be pumped out. Other companies will often "explain" that the pipe under the floor takes all the ground water and the outside trench will take away surface water. This outside trench is shallow and worthless. They never even MENTION the drainage holes drilled into the core face of the bottom row of block in the basement, under the level of the floor slab. And folks, this is THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. It is also the step most often "screwed up" by other contractors. You see there are two variables that must be dealt with in ensuring the effectiveness of the "weep holes". First is that when the mason was laying the blocks different masons "slough off" different amounts of mortar into the bottom course which affects the level of the "bottom" inside the blocks themselves. This means it is important to make sure that you are above the mortar bed and yet remain in the lowest part of the block.
Secondly it is ESSENTIAL to make sure that your men are educated as to the history of the development of concrete blocks, as well as all of the different core patterns that have been incorporated into them over time. You see this work is done by YOUNG men. In their short lifetime concrete blocks have only been made with Two cores. If they drill into the block where they imagine the core is today, in one of the many variations in block design that have occurred over the years, it is entirely possible , no probable that they are drilling into the web rather than the core or pocket of the block. Only by drilling into every single core of every single block does it become possible to drain the entire wall and make the system work effectively. It is entirely possible to install the drain tiles perfectly and... still leave ALL of the water dammed up inside the walls, wasting all that money and still leaving the problem UNSOLVED. In fact many times I get called after the homeowners have spent thousands of dollars to "waterproof " their basement and even THOUSANDS MOREto turn it into finished space. Only to find mold growing on newly installed drywall. This happened to one of my customers named Bonnie Rembowski. She had hired a big local company and they installed an inside system. She then hired a contractor to remodel her basement. They hung new dry wall and framed new walls. She had new carpeting installed and everything seemed perfect until... Bonnie kept getting sick.
She was treated for recurring bronchitis many times over a period of about six months. Finally one day Bonnie's doctor suggested to her that she have her house checked for mold. Bonnie called me. I began inspecting the basement and I immediately began to notice mold growing along the bottom several feet on all the newly dry-walled walls that had just been "waterproofed". I began inspecting the inside system and I discovered that even though a permit was pulled ... Even though the drainage pipes were inspected and installed properly... even though there was no puddling or physical seepage the system was NOT WORKING . The reason why became apparent after we broke open the floor and inspected the weep holes- JUST AS I SUSPECTED. The walls were not draining do to improper weep hole placement. Poor Bonnie.
WE HAD TO COMPLETELY GUT THE BRAND NEW BASEMENT ...and disinfect everything to stop the mold and help her STOP GETTING SICK. She contacted the waterproofing company who did the job WRONG. They told her there was nothing they could do under the warranty since technically the basement hadn't leaked (it was just DONE WRONG in the first place). Poor Bonnie then had to hire us to fix the basement problem TOO! Unfortunately this is not the first time this has happened to me and sadly I'm afraid it WON'T be the last.
This inside system however is ideal for situations where water is coming up from under the slab itself; in fact it is the only solution for under-slab water issues. No matter which contractor you call the same basic system is used. There are however many problems with this system as is employed by "competition" nationwide. The GOOD NEWS however is that we have modified the system to eliminate all of the potential problems and WE EDUCATE OUR WORKERS as to the history of concrete blocks. This education guarantees that this kind of a problem won't happen to you. We also INSIST on installing CLEAN OUTS which are access points set in the floor. These clean outs means that down the road you can maintain your system and "flush it out" every few years with a garden hose. It also means, heaven forbid, you have a problem with the drainage pipes clogging, that you WONT have to JACKHAMMER your floor you can have them snaked or jetted clean! Contrary to what you might have been told PROPERLY INSTALLED inside drainage systems can be the BEST solution when figuring all factors especially the Return On Investment. A PROPERLY INSTALLED inside system is also the preferred method for keeping concrete block walls from disintegrating, due to the fact that it allows for water drainage and keeps soil acid buildup to a minimum.
The last two systems are what we call "beaver" or dam systems that are installed either on top of the floor or just under the floor but on top of the footer that channels water from the walls to either a sump pump or to a floor drain. These systems are marketed to installers usually under the Basement Systems(TM) , Beaver Technology and Squid gee Dri labels, and in my opinion, offer the least protection to your basement.
The Baseboard systems that sit on top of the slab or on top of the footer have several basic flaws.
FLAW ONE: the slab is poured several inches up the bottom block, this means that when the installer drills the weep holes above the floor level the system allows water to keep sitting in the block up several inches which makes humidity which leads to mold and keeps disintegrating the bottom block from the inside out. The bottom block hold the entire weight of the entire house! The LAST thing that you want is that block to crumble -DISASTER!
FLAW TWO: when the cement finisher was troweling your cement floor X number of years ago the last thing on his mind was sloping the perimeter around the basement so 50 years later some guy could glue a gutter around the edge of the basement! What that means is since the gutter is basically level it allows for pooling along the bottom of the walls and is usually just glued into place without any type of pitch added. When the water lays in it in the low sections over time it will DISINTEGRATE or break down the bond between the floor slab and the wall. Eventually LEAKING again into the living space.
FLAW THREE: This system is still prone to the same weep hole placement errors as described above due to variations in the number of cores used in blocks over time.
FLAW FOUR: This system does nothing to drain water from underneath the slab or hydrostatic water from the exterior forced under the footing- it only partially drains the walls which is not good enough to stop MOLD from developing. The second hybrid system is the system offered by distributors of the Basement Systems(TM) called Water Guard this system is installed by breaking out approximately 6 inches of the basement perimeter concrete but digging no trench alongside the footing. The system has a flat drainage pipe that sits absolutely level on the TOP of the footing. The level drain tile will always allow water to sit in it and can contribute to the overall humidity in the room, creating the conditions that let MOLD thrive. This means that the lowest part of the pipe is the TOP of the footer completely failing to drain or eliminate ANY under-slab water whether from the water table or from the exterior of the wall being forced under the slab. In other words it only drains the wall and NOTHING ELSE! This system is used because it drastically limits the amount of labor used by the contractor saving him tons of money! In fact in many cases these contractors make more from this system than any other which is the reason so many of them will offer you a basically WORTHLESS system! It has been proven that the most effective inside de-watering system is one that is installed below the floor slab, and has been given an artificial pitch. It is just as important that when using one of these true under slab systems to correct the items commonly mistaken in the industry that are mentioned above, it is best to have a thorough knowledge of all of the systems at ones disposal!!!
Good luck!
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Monday, October 17, 2011
Saturday, October 15, 2011
KOHLER K-12177-CP Fairfax Single Control Kitchen Sink Faucet, Polished Chrome
!±8± KOHLER K-12177-CP Fairfax Single Control Kitchen Sink Faucet, Polished Chrome
Brand : Kohler | Rate : | Price : $157.99
Post Date : Oct 15, 2011 11:36:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : $157.99Post Date : Oct 15, 2011 11:36:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
- Easy-to-clean anti-hard water sprayface
- Traditional styling at an affordable price
- Installation flexibility with included escutcheon plate
- Washerless ceramic valving ensures precise water control
- High-temperature limit stop allows you to preset a comfortable maximum temperature to eliminate scalding
More Specification..!!
KOHLER K-12177-CP Fairfax Single Control Kitchen Sink Faucet, Polished Chrome
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